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Fabric and technique

What is GSM in clothing? The weight you can feel.

GSM stands for grams per square metre: the weight of a fabric per square metre. A thin promo shirt or a tee that drapes nicely? The difference starts with this one number.

· 5 min read

Oversized cream t-shirt in 240 GSM cotton

In short

  • We make t-shirts from 140 to 320 GSM, hoodies from 280 to 550 GSM.
  • A hoodie of 480 GSM costs 40 to 60% more than in 320 GSM.
  • Construction, fibre and finish count too, so feel a sample first.
Detail photo of a cream t-shirt

What does GSM mean in clothing?

The higher the GSM, the heavier and sturdier the fabric. A t-shirt of 150 GSM feels thin and airy, a hoodie of 480 GSM heavy and full.

It is a measurable number, not a marketing term. So always ask for it in a quote: a price without GSM tells you nothing.

What GSM do you choose for a t-shirt?

We make t-shirts and long sleeves from 140 to 320 GSM. Within that range, this is how you choose:

  • 140 to 160 GSM: thin and cheap. Only for promotion or a one-off event.
  • 180 to 200 GSM: the standard basic. Fine for branded merch.
  • 220 to 240 GSM: mid-heavy. A popular choice for premium streetwear.
  • 260 to 300 GSM: heavyweight. Heavy enough for a boxy fit that drapes nicely.

What GSM do you choose for a hoodie or sweater?

We make hoodies and sweaters from 280 to 550 GSM. Within that range, this is how you choose:

  • 280 to 320 GSM: a light hoodie for spring and summer.
  • 360 to 400 GSM: the standard premium hoodie, with a good balance between warmth and comfort.
  • 420 to 480 GSM: heavyweight oversized, almost a blanket feel.
  • 500 to 550 GSM: extremely heavyweight. Rare and expensive, with a look of its own.

What GSM do you choose for a tracksuit?

With a tracksuit, what counts most is that top and trousers match. We make sets from 260 to 450 GSM, with the top and the trousers from the same fabric batch.

For everyday comfort, 280 to 380 GSM is a good choice. For luxury or loungewear, choose 400 GSM and above.

What GSM do you choose for joggers?

Trousers have to hold their shape at the knee and in the crotch, and that is exactly where a weight that is too light gives itself away. We make joggers from 260 to 450 GSM.

  • Below 260 GSM: only for summer styles, because below that the knee starts to sag.
  • 260 to 300 GSM poly tricot: the classic track pants, light and quick-drying.
  • 280 to 340 GSM french terry: the jogger for the whole year, supple and breathable.
  • 380 to 450 GSM heavy fleece: heavy and shape-retaining, with a wider silhouette that still holds up after dozens of washes.

What GSM do you choose for a polo?

With a polo, everything depends on the collar. We work with 200 to 260 GSM in piqué or interlock: light enough to drape neatly, heavy enough to keep the collar upright.

Below 200 GSM the collar goes limp after a few washes. Above 260 GSM a polo starts to look like a sweater and the light, polished effect disappears.

What GSM do you choose for sportswear?

With sportswear, you choose the weight based on how intensively it is used. Our range runs from 180 to 500 GSM.

  • 180 to 220 GSM: performance tees and tank tops that need to be light and breathable.
  • 240 to 320 GSM: training tops and leggings that need to feel sturdy.
  • 380 GSM and above: fleece you wear before and after training.

What GSM do you choose for a jacket?

With a jacket, you count the outer fabric and the lining separately. The outer fabric ranges from 60 to 120 GSM for a light nylon jacket, through 220 to 320 GSM cotton twill for a coach jacket, to 500 to 700 GSM wool melton for an overcoat.

Lining, padding and insulation have their own weight. List those separately in your specification.

Is a higher GSM more expensive?

Yes. A hoodie of 480 GSM costs 40 to 60% more than the same hoodie in 320 GSM. So choose the weight that suits your price point:

  • Merch for companies and events: 180 to 200 GSM.
  • Premium streetwear and small runs: 240 to 320 GSM.
  • Luxury or heavyweight: 400 GSM and above.

Why does GSM not tell you everything about quality?

Two fabrics with the same GSM can feel completely different. Across all types of fabric for clothing, the construction (jersey, french terry, fleece, brushed back), the fibre (100% cotton, ringspun, a cotton-polyester blend) and the finish (garment-dyed, enzyme-washed), together with the weight, determine how a piece drapes and feels.

So feel it first in a sample of your own style, before you commit to a production run.

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Frequently asked questions

Is a higher GSM always better?

No. Higher means heavier, warmer and more expensive. For a summer tee or a light sports shirt, a lower weight is actually more pleasant. Choose the weight based on the season, the fit and your price point.

What is the difference between 100% cotton and a polyester blend at the same GSM?

At the same weight, cotton feels softer and more breathable. A blend holds its shape better, creases less and dries faster. So the choice determines how the garment wears and washes, not how heavy it is.

Can MakeaLabel supply any GSM?

As standard we work from 140 GSM for a light t-shirt to 550 GSM for a heavyweight hoodie or sweater, and heavier for wool jackets. Does your wish differ from that? Put your specification in your request, and we will check it with our factories.

How do I know for sure I am choosing the right weight?

By feeling it before you commit to anything. In your sample, straight away with your print or embroidery, you judge fabric, weight and fit. A sample costs from €150, depending on the style, and is ready at least 5 to 6 weeks after payment.

Feel it yourself. In your own sample.

Tell us what you want to make and which weight you have in mind. We make it from 10 pieces per style, and first as a sample.